Tuesday, May 5, 2009

The Stone Fort

I just can't be expected to come all the way East to visit my parents and not visit one of the killer bouldering areas the South has to offer. Little Rock City is one of my favorites and is only an hour and twenty minutes from my folks' house. We had three days to choose from and today looked as though it would be the driest and perhaps coolest, so the wife and I jumped in the car and went to try our luck. I say luck because this really isn't the best time of year to be trying to stick to slopey sandstone and last year we got hosed quite literally in May when we tried a visit to the ole Stone Fort. Rain and 100% humidity had us trying Diesel Power V6 and several others to no avail.
This year was different and though we drove through a bit of rain on the way over the boulders were dry and surprisingly sticky. I was excited to get Meg to try some classic moderates I had ticked off on previous visits. We warmed up on Mystery Groove V4 and some slabby stuff nearby. Spyro Gyro V7/8 was just around the corner and having tried and failed in the past, I hoped today would go better. The dyno method wasn't working and after a little beta trickery I found a way to heel hook and static the move to the jug. Seemed easier then Business Time to me but apparantly the dyno method is a bit harder.

With that out of the way, on to more classic easier stuff. Meg wanted to try the Wave V5, one of my favorite V5's anywhere so we played on that for a while. This problem is strikingly a lot like Man With the Slow Hand V4 in Horse Pens 40, which I did a few months ago, except it has a better start and isn't crammed down in a hole with serious dab potential.

We then went over to Dragon Lady V4 and Tri-Star both of which I had done before but was more than happy to play on. I also tried the recently completed Dragon something or other to the right of Dragon Lady. I had tried this in the past with no luck but had found a video of some strong bastard sending it so I thought maybe it would help me somehow. It did not make me any stronger or more likely to fire it, alas this is a very difficult climb. One more stop, a moderate I had always wanted to try, Super Mario Bros V4. It was nice to find a couple guys working on it when we got there, a little extra foam never hurts. A quick preview and I thrutched my way through for flash. Yee haw! Another fantastic line. We had run out of time and needed to hit the road. As usual, I pushed for one more of something. One of the guys there wanted to try the straight up exit which is called Nathan or something like that. I was game because I could see it had two giant moves down low and we had several crashpads. I managed the two big moves and was nearing the 20 foot mark but had no idea for what to do next, so I bailed.

All in all a great day, I even managed to get my $25 back from the gas station attendant that ripped me off earlier in the day.

1 comment:

  1. Hells yes! Look at sneegro H-Pinnin' it! That looks like some more awesome southern climbing. If we ever go back im gonna want to check that out!