Friday, July 20, 2012

Summer in Tensleep and other Wyoming Happenings

Yada yada Tensleep this...  Yada yada Tensleep that.
Bolted some new stuff.  Helped open another new Crag.  Climbed a bunch of amazing routes.
I've got zero pics or footage.

Here's something different.  Some folks over in Western Wyoming are working on a new multipitch line on overhanging limestone.  While the line doesn't look to be done yet, they have leaked out some footage of their project.  Check it out:

Pilgrimage to the Sun - 5.11+ from on Vimeo.

Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Some Local Flavor

Western Gold was released yesterday and based on reviews that are trickling in it sounds like Alex Savage has done it again. Myself and several other Cody residents were psyched he chose to spend some time here last Fall to check Cody bouldering out, as he turned out to be a really nice guy.  It wasn't initially in his plan to visit Cody but a changes in plans and an open schedule found him touring around some of our favorite spots. Marc spent the most time hosting Alex and now finds himself in the video and representing on the front cover. Nice Work! Can't wait to see the video. You can order it as an HD download to watch immediately or buy a DVD Copy. Im waiting for a real Copy to show up at my doorstep.

Saturday, March 31, 2012

Some Sending

I finally sent something new! McClelland Strong is the first route I bolted on the Single Malt Wall. In fact I started bolting other routes just to have some warm ups for this beast. This climb is demanding from the moment you step off the ground and doesnt let up till your clipping the anchor. It has very atypical moves on pinches, slopers and underclings with some optional knee bars. Initially, this climb felt like it would be impossible to sew together and the pump was throttling me under the roof. Once I had my sequences figured out though I was able to climb smoother and more efficiently allowing me to get to the lip fresher. Last season I made it out the roof but blew it higher up near the anchor. Today I just went for it and it felt great. This may be the hardest route in Cody now at 5.13b. Real cutting edge.... Yes, we are still in the stone age in terms of grades in Cody

The weather has been perfect for the new granite routes down by the river, with multiple days in the 50's and 60's. Last weekend, I finished bolting the arete at the right side of the Dragons Den. This was one of two I started last fall, I put three days in and was close to finishing but the winter weather shut me down. A long and winding route, this one starts right of Labor of Hate on the steepness and goes up and right to the arete finishing up the vert wall to the top of the cliff. I am syked to begin working on it, the initial boulder problem looks desperate. The route is long and though the rest will be cool, the crux will surely be the start.

More routes planned for the Lower Granite and the Island.

Sunday, February 26, 2012

Getting out and on a rope. Finally!

After several months of flux, winter blahs, job changes, etc., a real climbing day materialized. I rallied the troops for a blast over to Tensleep for a wintery visit to the Octagon.

A fresh blanket of 8 to 10 inches had fallen making the hike in more interesting to say the least.

The river crossing is always a heads up affair but on slippery logs and planks covered with snow, even more so.

After crawling up the braided hand line we were rewarded with our first peek at the cave.

I have been here a dozen times over the the past year in every season and its always climbable. Its perfectly situated so it catches sun all day in the winter and shade throughout the warmer months.

We hopped on The Dean Of Mean .12d as our warm up. This was a climb I did last season after what seemed like way too many tries. I thought I would do it on my second go like so many of the steep and pumpy climbs in this cave but after several visits and many attempts I was still failing at the top after a lengthy rest. Its so juggy and flows really well and really is one of the easier climbs in the cave so I was psyched to dispatch it today as a warmup and get on with the next step, Fight of the Night .13a.

Starting out on FOTN
Thanks Marc for snapping these pics
A nearly horizontal girdle traverse brings you out of the back of the cave to join Dean of Mean.
This has been my high point for several tries. From here there is only about 8 more feet to the rest, then the redpoint crux of Dean of Mean.

Marc was with me last fall on a visit and was quite taken with Baby Face Assassin, a short .13a.
This climb is more Tensleep-ish than anything else in this cave. It comes up the back wall at a consistent 15 or 20 degree overhang and has small and medium sized crimps the whole way. Its kind of bouldery and suits Marcs style and strengths well, plus its super fun! It also has a 60+ foot extension called Soul Assassin that goes out the horizontal roof and up the headwall at .14b.

Marc starting up BFA
Approaching the crux.

All in all a great day, though no one really had much sending success. Its still early in the season and on the way home, we all talked of returning in a few weeks for more full body thrashing after some more gym training. Can't wait!!