Saturday, March 31, 2012

Some Sending

I finally sent something new! McClelland Strong is the first route I bolted on the Single Malt Wall. In fact I started bolting other routes just to have some warm ups for this beast. This climb is demanding from the moment you step off the ground and doesnt let up till your clipping the anchor. It has very atypical moves on pinches, slopers and underclings with some optional knee bars. Initially, this climb felt like it would be impossible to sew together and the pump was throttling me under the roof. Once I had my sequences figured out though I was able to climb smoother and more efficiently allowing me to get to the lip fresher. Last season I made it out the roof but blew it higher up near the anchor. Today I just went for it and it felt great. This may be the hardest route in Cody now at 5.13b. Real cutting edge.... Yes, we are still in the stone age in terms of grades in Cody

The weather has been perfect for the new granite routes down by the river, with multiple days in the 50's and 60's. Last weekend, I finished bolting the arete at the right side of the Dragons Den. This was one of two I started last fall, I put three days in and was close to finishing but the winter weather shut me down. A long and winding route, this one starts right of Labor of Hate on the steepness and goes up and right to the arete finishing up the vert wall to the top of the cliff. I am syked to begin working on it, the initial boulder problem looks desperate. The route is long and though the rest will be cool, the crux will surely be the start.

More routes planned for the Lower Granite and the Island.


  1. Nice work on M.S.! That's sick dude, such a great line and a worthy addition to Cody route climbing. If we can make it up there this spring/summer I'd love to get a tour of all the new development. Definitely a zone for future hard climbing!

  2. Thanks! The sector is coming along nicely. The routes are good and in such a varied style. We'll have to hook up next time you guys are here for a tour of the goods. ciao