Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Satan's Soul V12

The Hate Satan Project has succumbed to the determination of Kerrek Stinson. While I was not there to capture it on video, I'm sure he made it look easy. This problem however did not go lightly in that many attempts over multiple days went into it. This was even after the moves had all been sussed, completed, the sequences sewn together and with enough tries to pretty much wire it. It still demanded something more, like the exquisite meal that is so much more than the ingredients that went into it. Awkward yet unique in its execution, this is a fine problem that is also very hard. I did spend a morning filming attempts and sewed together a collage of moves identical to what he used for the send.

Satan's Soul V12 from Mike Snyder on Vimeo.

Sunday, March 14, 2010


My favorite holiday of the year. Not really a holiday but significant nonetheless because the extra hour in the evening allows for after work outdoor sessions during the week. To me, it has always signaled the beginning of the season.

A few years back (like nine) Dylan put in an order to Frank Endo Chalk for a box of seconds. What he recieved he figured would last him for ever. A giant box lined with a plastic bag of busted up chalk blocks! A treausre indeed, and it did last for quite some time. With the bouldering activity ramped up last year, he began going through his stash and passing it out to friends with great speed and kindness. Lo and behold the well ran dry and now he is out.

Enter Clint Cook, always in search of the greatest deals on the planet. After a little research on the net he placed an order for a new case of busted up seconds. I picked him up this morning for an afternoon of bouldering on the mountain and he came bearing gifts. My very own gallon zip lock bag full of chunks of chalk. Yess!! A fine gift on this most excellent of climber holidays.

Now if you climb more than once in a while you know how quickly chalk can disappear from your chalk bag. Throw in a rookie mistake here and there like kicking over the bucket or sitting on your chalk bag and spilling the whole mess (come on we've all done it), and finding a good cheap source of the magic dust becomes a must. So next time you need a fix, get some buddies to pony up for a 24lb. box of seconds and it will cost just under $100 delivered straight to your door. You will never have to be THAT guy again, you know the one who always has a chalk bag but there is nothing in it except little pebbles and pine needles.

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Winter Sun

Though it has been too cold and inclement for outdoor climbing for most of the winter, February wasn't that bad around here, for bouldering anyway. Most trips are usually to the sunny wind blocked Carcass Crag. Due to the flurry of recent activity several new climbs have been envisioned and a gem or two completed. I have been lazy in shooting anything down there but rest assured a treasure of an FA awaits. I hope to capture it.

Kerrek has been training with us due to the permanent demise of our local rock gym, CORE. He basically lived there training nearly every day after school for several years now and was wondering what he would do with out it. The kid is strong, he showed up and cruised our warm ups, cruised our cool tough problems, cruised our projects then went on to create a project of his own.

Kerrek has been making trips to an old project on the Hate Satan Boulder that we envisioned back when Finger Paint and the other roof problems were being established. Dubbed the Hate Satan Project, I convinced BJ Tilden to have a go at it. He made several trips and came very close but lacked a foot transition that apparently stopped the whole process. Kerrick has replicated the sequence and decided to simply campus the tricky foot work. He has done and linked all the moves and now has to sew it all together. I gave the lad a ride the other day hoping to catch some good light and a send to make some video. I did get some good video but no send yet. As part of my ongoing effort to document and publish as many Cody Boulder problems as I can stand to film and edit (if you could call it that), here is Kerrek Stinson warming up on Shiza Shiza V7.

Shiza Shiza V7 from Mike Snyder on Vimeo.