Wednesday, April 29, 2009


Much to the chagrin of the fam, I snuck away for a quick sess Monday evening, more unfinished business to attend to. Fortunately my oft climbing partner and good friend Clint was already on the mountain up at the Antelope Boulder. He was more than willing to meet me for something new.
I had my sights set on a lip traverse higher up in the roadcut close to the highway. This had a quick and dirty landscape job done a few weeks back on a dreary 'work' day. Looking at it again I now realize a little more TLC would make an even nicer landing surface. I had been trying to climb the spine to the right of the traverse before Clint showed up, but kept getting freaked out by the rate at wich the elevation was gained and hillside sloped downward below me. Yikes! Maybe another time, a solid kejones day. So around the corner to the traverse.
The line is strange, as most traverses tend to be, but with challenging and enjoyable moves. We worked out each section and sewed them together and before I knew it I was attempting the top out which is cruxy enough on its own. Twice I made it there and twice punted off mere inches from the end. My shoulder was beginning to bug me so we left it for another day.

On the way back to the truck we passed Business Time, a short climb which I established a few days ago. Clint saw it and was immediately psyched. I gave him my usual spray down of beta and yadda yadda, the game was on. Now, my buddy Clint is a shorter climber, 5'3" to be exact and I am a hair under 6 foot, so our climbing styles and beta typically vary. Little Clint or LC is one nickname so dubbed by my brother and his flagstaff crew of my 'strong-like-bull' buddy Clint. To make this long story shorter, LC threw down Business Time in 3 goes claimed it was fantastic and concurred with V6 as a grade. He used the same climbing holds I did, but did a standing start on holds 10 inches higher and found different footholds. All in all a strong effort and great send but different somehow than mine yet still valid at the same time. My quasi sit start forced me to do a full extension move that Clint just couldn't reach without uncontrollably flying around on a sloper. Great send and a good evening session.

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